After my 8 yr old daughter saw the very cool Lego army that Rebel Minis posted on their blog, she wanted to do the same thing with Lego knights.
But while we waited to find deals on lego people, I remembered I had bought some 2.5D tanks & dinosaur models recently. They're made out of styrene pieces that you punch out of a card like the Wizkids' Pirates of the Spanish Main ships. Here are scans of the inserts that came in the packs. There's quite a range of model types.
Unfortunately, the website listed on the packs (www.z-cardz.com) goes to an Asian language site with no English info at all. So I can't help track down any of the models.
I had 5 packs of tanks & 1 pack of dinosaurs which I quickly snapped together & came up with some rules off the top of my head.
Here's the inital board lay out, & the yellow vs green forces (2 dinos, 2 tanks & 2 smaller tank destroyer vehicles each).
Here's a closeups of my daughter's force
& my force
The rules were very simple, but it did include measuring for movement & ranged fire (the dinos had a very short but very powerful fire breath), opposed die rolls to resolve combat, & different sized dice for the different figure types (tank destroyers = d6, tanks = d10, dinos = d20).
She started off very well with her forces hidden behind the woods. She asked if we could move or see through the woods & I said no to make it simple. She also told me which of the dinos were meat eaters & which were plant eaters, & that the meat eaters should be better fighters. I suggested we have all the dinos be the same for now.
She did make the very good tactical move all on her own. She ran her speedy tank destroyers up to hide behind a hill on my flank so I couldn't shoot them. Next turn she had them come over the hill so they'd be in range to shoot my tank, but was smart enough to also keep them far enough back from my forces so I couldn't shoot back (tank destroyers shot 12", but tanks shot 8" just to give the tank destroyers better survivability).
She ended up wiping out all my vehicles at one point. Here is a picture of her forces converging on my 2 remaining dinosaurs.
& another of her TRex coming over the hill to flank my dinos.
Unfortunately, the dino attack die of d20 was just too much for the tanks' d10 & tank destroyers' d6 & my dinos started quickly knocking off her vehicles. Seeing that she was getting disappointed, I "accidently" started rolling a d12 for the dinos instead of a d20, & allowed her to roll 2d6 for her tank destroyers when they fired at the same target.
She finally (luckily) beat me & ran off to tell Mom about her glorious victory. I was very happy she enjoyed it & was very active in wanting to play the game, doing her own measuring & making her own tactical decisions.
Now I need to go write down the rules I came up for our next game since I know she'll start correcting me next time we play if I don't.
General SmoothieFace reviewing her victorious forces
Monday, August 8, 2011
Saturday, August 6, 2011
Warmaster Terrain
Been unable to get myself motivated to work on any wargaming project for a long time. So, I used a recent Warmaster campaign day as impetus to finally get something done.
I dug out the Warmaster terrain pieces that I'd had for years since they'd be a quick & simple project. I ended up finishing the pieces themselves in about 9 hours. & then about another 2.5 hours to do the bases.
The buildings are all from JR Miniatures 10mm Ancient/Medieval range.
I primed them white and block painted them, with a bit of drybrushing, & finished them off with the Minwax Miracle Dip method.
The buildings are mounted on a variety of hotel card keys, used gift cards, etc. Unfortunately, some are already starting to flex & the basing material is lifting off.
These stones are actually bluish. I wanted them to look a bit more magical than just grey standing stones.
Now I just need to make a river for these bridges to go over.
I dug out the Warmaster terrain pieces that I'd had for years since they'd be a quick & simple project. I ended up finishing the pieces themselves in about 9 hours. & then about another 2.5 hours to do the bases.
The buildings are all from JR Miniatures 10mm Ancient/Medieval range.
I primed them white and block painted them, with a bit of drybrushing, & finished them off with the Minwax Miracle Dip method.
The buildings are mounted on a variety of hotel card keys, used gift cards, etc. Unfortunately, some are already starting to flex & the basing material is lifting off.
These stones are actually bluish. I wanted them to look a bit more magical than just grey standing stones.
Now I just need to make a river for these bridges to go over.
Friday, July 15, 2011
Monday, July 11, 2011
7/11/11 Pledge update
145 unpainted 15mm WW2 french * 15 / 25 * 1.5 = 131 new 25mm figures
234 from before + 131 = 365
Completed 22 25mm VSF character: 365 - 22 = 343
Completed 60 10mm VSF figs: 60 * 10 / 25 = 24 343 - 24 = 319
Completed 12 25mm VSF skinks that I forgot to count in April: 319 - 12 = 307
FRAKKIN HELL!!!
234 from before + 131 = 365
Completed 22 25mm VSF character: 365 - 22 = 343
Completed 60 10mm VSF figs: 60 * 10 / 25 = 24 343 - 24 = 319
Completed 12 25mm VSF skinks that I forgot to count in April: 319 - 12 = 307
FRAKKIN HELL!!!
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
Cheap Flight Stands?
While passing by the $1 bins at Target today, I saw "Telescoping Marshmallow Stick".
It telescopes out in 4 or 5 pieces. The bottom piece attached to the handle was about 3" long, but the other sections were about 5" long. The metal seems to be very light aluminum, so the handle & fork might be pretty easy to remove.
I doubt the friction between the sections would be enough to support the weight of something has large as a Wing of War plane. & any significant lateral force when extended would probably easily bend the tubes. But these might work well for microarmor scale or smaller planes or scifi fighters.
It telescopes out in 4 or 5 pieces. The bottom piece attached to the handle was about 3" long, but the other sections were about 5" long. The metal seems to be very light aluminum, so the handle & fork might be pretty easy to remove.
I doubt the friction between the sections would be enough to support the weight of something has large as a Wing of War plane. & any significant lateral force when extended would probably easily bend the tubes. But these might work well for microarmor scale or smaller planes or scifi fighters.
Sunday, June 5, 2011
Song of Snow & Slime
Finally tried Song of Blades & Heroes for the 1st time. I used the Bridge Over MurkyRiver scenario from the 2nd issue of Ganesha Game's Free Hack magazine. But since I didn't have Lizardmen & Wood Elves, I turned them into Deep Ones & Vikings. The racial characteristics (Amphibious for the Lizardmen, Forester for the Wood Elves) matched the substitute races well, so it was just a direct replacement.
The scenario is a Deep One shaman leads a scouting part to capture a bridge on the edge of the Viking territory.
Here's the board setup. The layout was specified in the article, so I'm not sure what the wall was supposed to be from.
When using 25mm figures, the game calls for a 36"x36" play area. But I played on my collapsible painting table, which is 32.5"x32.5", so it was a bit more cramped, but still worked well.
Unfortunately, I had to raid my daughter's art box to get construction paper for the river & the bridge. I've already got the makings for rivers, but will definitely need to work on a bridge for future games.
Since I'd recently made some huts for another game, I threw those onto the board & turned it into a small Viking outpost.
The Deep Ones forces were 1 Shaman, 2 Warriors, 2 Skirmishers (3" range band Javelins) & 2 more Savage Deep Ones (harder to activate, but more violent in battle). The Vikings had 1 Shaman & 5 Long Bowmen. Both warbands ended up being just under 300 pts, the standard size for a force.
Here's the initial force deployment. The Vikings set up around their outpost in the upper right corner. The Deep Ones spread out across the left side, with the Savage Deep Ones inside the wall, the Warriors on either side of the river, & the Shaman & Skirmishers behind the trees. When I read "left" & "right" side in the scenario's deployment instructions, I assumed it was in reference to the orientation of the picture in the article, which had the river running east/west down the middle of the board. That's why the Deep Ones were able to deployed on both sides of the river.
But after the game was over, I realized it might might have meant to have the 2 forces deployed so the river was a natural barrier between them. Otherwise, it wouldn't make a lot of sense for the Deep Ones to capture the bridge if they already had forces on both sides of the river.
The Vikings went 1st, with the Shaman (figure near the back without a shield) & 3 of the Bowmen rushing to the brush by the bridge (Vikings' racial skill is to move through woods & brush without penalty).
The other 2 Bowmen try to outflank the Deep Ones to gain the high ground on the hill at the north of the board.
The Deep One Warriors dive into the river (their racial skill was to move through water without penalty) while the rest of the Deep Ones advance.
The main Viking party finishes moving into the brush & prepare to ambush the Deep Ones. Unfortunately, the Deep Ones are still outside the Vikings' 7" longbow range (* see note below). The flanking Viking force doesn't get very far due to bad dice rolls.
The Deep One Warriors speed under the bridge & pop out of the water right next to the brush the Vikings are hiding in. So much for the Vikings' long range advantage. The Savage Deep Ones slowly move up, but due to them being harder to activate, they aren't able to make multiple moves in 1 turn & don't move too fast like the others.
The Vikings in the brush fire arrows & magic to little effect, while the flanking force is still moving slow. The Deep One Warriors reach the Vikings in the brush, but don't have enough actions to attack them yet.
The Viking Shaman is confronted by one of the Deep One Warriors (right side in the picture above), which won't end well. So he tries to run away but gets cut down as he turns around. 1st blood to the Deep Ones. The other Deep One Warrior knocks down his opponent. The flanking Vikings finally are close enough to be of use & shoot down one of the Deep One Skirmishers. The Deep One Shaman & the unengaged Vikings exchange spells & arrows to no effect.
The Vikings continue to be ineffectual in melee, while the flanking Vikings fire with a similar success at the Deep Ones. The fallen Viking is skewered by the Deep One Warrior.
Both sides knock an opponent over, but the Deep Ones are the only ones able to seal the deal, killing the 3rd Viking. This causes a Morale check for the Vikings after losing half their force. The 2 flanking Vikings stalwartly stand, but the 3rd Viking, facing 3 Deep Ones on his own in the brush makes a strategic withdrawal.
After that, it pretty much goes downhill even more for the Vikings. They were able to kill one of the Savage Deep Ones.
But then the Vikings were all chased down & killed to a man.
The Deep Ones gibber in celebration of their total victory.
Overall, a fun, light game, but with some tactical depth due to the multi-activation rule. It took me about an hour to play, with lots of flipping through the rulebook since it was my 1st time playing. But with really only 7 pages of basic rules, the flipping was very quick.
I noticed a big difference in performance between the regular Deep Ones (needing a 3+ on a d6 to activate) & the Savage Deep Ones (needing a 4+ to activate). The affect of that 1 point was quite noticeable.
But, the crushing defeat of the Vikings came down to my usual bad dice rolls. While I could easily activate the Vikings (needing 3+), when it came to hitting, I regularly rolled 1-3s, against the Deep Ones 4-6s. Actually, in the middle of the game, there was a series of about 6 consecutive turns where I failed badly enough activating the 1st figure on a side that initiative passed immediately to the other side. So effectively, both sides took a long tactical pause, just staring at each other, since I was unable to successfully activate either side.
*NOTE: I also just realized I was doing ranged combat wrong. I only allowed the ranged weapons to fire 1 ranged band. The Vikings were only firing 7". But ranged weapons can fire up to 3x their range band. So they should have been able to fire almost all the way across the board. It would have been initially at a -4 to hit, but that still would have given them a lot more chances to take the Deep Ones out before they got into melee.
The scenario is a Deep One shaman leads a scouting part to capture a bridge on the edge of the Viking territory.
Here's the board setup. The layout was specified in the article, so I'm not sure what the wall was supposed to be from.
When using 25mm figures, the game calls for a 36"x36" play area. But I played on my collapsible painting table, which is 32.5"x32.5", so it was a bit more cramped, but still worked well.
Unfortunately, I had to raid my daughter's art box to get construction paper for the river & the bridge. I've already got the makings for rivers, but will definitely need to work on a bridge for future games.
Since I'd recently made some huts for another game, I threw those onto the board & turned it into a small Viking outpost.
The Deep Ones forces were 1 Shaman, 2 Warriors, 2 Skirmishers (3" range band Javelins) & 2 more Savage Deep Ones (harder to activate, but more violent in battle). The Vikings had 1 Shaman & 5 Long Bowmen. Both warbands ended up being just under 300 pts, the standard size for a force.
Here's the initial force deployment. The Vikings set up around their outpost in the upper right corner. The Deep Ones spread out across the left side, with the Savage Deep Ones inside the wall, the Warriors on either side of the river, & the Shaman & Skirmishers behind the trees. When I read "left" & "right" side in the scenario's deployment instructions, I assumed it was in reference to the orientation of the picture in the article, which had the river running east/west down the middle of the board. That's why the Deep Ones were able to deployed on both sides of the river.
But after the game was over, I realized it might might have meant to have the 2 forces deployed so the river was a natural barrier between them. Otherwise, it wouldn't make a lot of sense for the Deep Ones to capture the bridge if they already had forces on both sides of the river.
The Vikings went 1st, with the Shaman (figure near the back without a shield) & 3 of the Bowmen rushing to the brush by the bridge (Vikings' racial skill is to move through woods & brush without penalty).
The other 2 Bowmen try to outflank the Deep Ones to gain the high ground on the hill at the north of the board.
The Deep One Warriors dive into the river (their racial skill was to move through water without penalty) while the rest of the Deep Ones advance.
The main Viking party finishes moving into the brush & prepare to ambush the Deep Ones. Unfortunately, the Deep Ones are still outside the Vikings' 7" longbow range (* see note below). The flanking Viking force doesn't get very far due to bad dice rolls.
The Deep One Warriors speed under the bridge & pop out of the water right next to the brush the Vikings are hiding in. So much for the Vikings' long range advantage. The Savage Deep Ones slowly move up, but due to them being harder to activate, they aren't able to make multiple moves in 1 turn & don't move too fast like the others.
The Vikings in the brush fire arrows & magic to little effect, while the flanking force is still moving slow. The Deep One Warriors reach the Vikings in the brush, but don't have enough actions to attack them yet.
The Viking Shaman is confronted by one of the Deep One Warriors (right side in the picture above), which won't end well. So he tries to run away but gets cut down as he turns around. 1st blood to the Deep Ones. The other Deep One Warrior knocks down his opponent. The flanking Vikings finally are close enough to be of use & shoot down one of the Deep One Skirmishers. The Deep One Shaman & the unengaged Vikings exchange spells & arrows to no effect.
The Vikings continue to be ineffectual in melee, while the flanking Vikings fire with a similar success at the Deep Ones. The fallen Viking is skewered by the Deep One Warrior.
Both sides knock an opponent over, but the Deep Ones are the only ones able to seal the deal, killing the 3rd Viking. This causes a Morale check for the Vikings after losing half their force. The 2 flanking Vikings stalwartly stand, but the 3rd Viking, facing 3 Deep Ones on his own in the brush makes a strategic withdrawal.
After that, it pretty much goes downhill even more for the Vikings. They were able to kill one of the Savage Deep Ones.
But then the Vikings were all chased down & killed to a man.
The Deep Ones gibber in celebration of their total victory.
Overall, a fun, light game, but with some tactical depth due to the multi-activation rule. It took me about an hour to play, with lots of flipping through the rulebook since it was my 1st time playing. But with really only 7 pages of basic rules, the flipping was very quick.
I noticed a big difference in performance between the regular Deep Ones (needing a 3+ on a d6 to activate) & the Savage Deep Ones (needing a 4+ to activate). The affect of that 1 point was quite noticeable.
But, the crushing defeat of the Vikings came down to my usual bad dice rolls. While I could easily activate the Vikings (needing 3+), when it came to hitting, I regularly rolled 1-3s, against the Deep Ones 4-6s. Actually, in the middle of the game, there was a series of about 6 consecutive turns where I failed badly enough activating the 1st figure on a side that initiative passed immediately to the other side. So effectively, both sides took a long tactical pause, just staring at each other, since I was unable to successfully activate either side.
*NOTE: I also just realized I was doing ranged combat wrong. I only allowed the ranged weapons to fire 1 ranged band. The Vikings were only firing 7". But ranged weapons can fire up to 3x their range band. So they should have been able to fire almost all the way across the board. It would have been initially at a -4 to hit, but that still would have given them a lot more chances to take the Deep Ones out before they got into melee.
Thursday, April 7, 2011
4/7/11 Pledge
Well, made it 1/4 the way through the year without any big purchases.
Bought mostly painted Undead & High Elf Warmaster Armies
445 painted 10mm figures * .5 / 2.5 = 89 25mm figures
204 unpainted 10mm figures * 1.5 / 2.5 = 123 25mm figures
89 + 123 + 22 from before = 234 25mm figures to paint ACK!!!!!
Bought mostly painted Undead & High Elf Warmaster Armies
445 painted 10mm figures * .5 / 2.5 = 89 25mm figures
204 unpainted 10mm figures * 1.5 / 2.5 = 123 25mm figures
89 + 123 + 22 from before = 234 25mm figures to paint ACK!!!!!
Sunday, March 13, 2011
3/13 Pledge
Gave away 13 VSF figures, 20 (from before) -13 = 7
Bought 29 painted Beastmen, 29*.5 (since they're already painted) = 15
7+15 = 22 25mm figures to paint
Bought 29 painted Beastmen, 29*.5 (since they're already painted) = 15
7+15 = 22 25mm figures to paint
Friday, February 18, 2011
2/18 Pledge
New year, fresh slate
Bought 13 VSF 25mm figures * 1.5 = +20 to start the year off with.
Not going to count the 5 Ral Partha Unicorn figures that I bought for my daughter.
Bought 13 VSF 25mm figures * 1.5 = +20 to start the year off with.
Not going to count the 5 Ral Partha Unicorn figures that I bought for my daughter.
2010 Pledge Wrapup
Purchased a good sized force of Brigade Games Land Ironclads, & received some WW2 3mm stuff as a gift, so not sure what to count those.
But with a previous net -113 25mm for the year, I think I ended on the "less unpainted figures than before" side.
But with a previous net -113 25mm for the year, I think I ended on the "less unpainted figures than before" side.
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